Frequently Asked Questions

Call us at (706) 510-0545 or use the contact form on this site. We will ask a few questions about the space, the tile you have in mind (or whether you need help selecting), and the surface underneath. From there we schedule a site visit to measure and assess conditions before providing a written scope.

The room dimensions help, but we will measure ourselves. What is more useful early on is knowing the current surface type (concrete slab, wood subfloor, existing tile), whether there is any visible moisture or damage, and whether you have already chosen tile or need recommendations. A few phone photos of the space also go a long way.

Demolition is available but scoped separately from the installation. Removing ceramic or porcelain tile from a concrete slab is labor-intensive and generates significant debris. We include haul-away in the scope when we take on demo work. In wet areas, we almost always recommend removing existing tile to inspect the substrate and apply fresh waterproofing rather than tiling over an unknown condition.

Both are kiln-fired clay products, but porcelain is denser, harder, and less water-absorbent because it is fired at higher temperatures from finer clay. For floors in high-traffic or wet areas, porcelain is generally the more durable choice. Ceramic costs less and is easier to cut, which makes it practical for wall applications where the physical demands are lower. The right choice depends on the location and how the space is used.

We work with client-supplied tile regularly. If you have already purchased tile or want to source it yourself, that is straightforward. We will confirm the quantity is sufficient, flag any quality issues, and let you know if anything about the tile requires specific adhesive or grout selection. We can also source tile directly from our distributor relationships if you prefer a single point of contact.

Mid-tone grays are the most forgiving in kitchen environments because they do not show staining the way white grout does, and they do not make discoloration as obvious as dark grout. That said, the right color depends on your tile and cabinet palette. We can show you samples and discuss sealing options, which extend the life of any grout color in a kitchen setting.

Thin-set mortar reaches sufficient strength for light foot traffic within 24 hours under normal temperature and humidity conditions. We recommend 48 hours before regular foot traffic and 72 hours before placing heavy furniture. Grout typically needs 24 to 48 hours before it is walked on, and we apply sealer after the grout has fully cured, which is usually 48 to 72 hours after grouting. Shower floors and walls should not get wet until the waterproof membrane and mortar have had a full 72-hour cure, minimum.

Most post-installation failures trace back to one of four causes: insufficient mortar coverage under the tile (leaving voids that concentrate stress), substrate movement or deflection, thermal expansion in large-format tile without adequate expansion joints, or moisture penetration behind the tile in wet areas. We address all of these at the installation stage, which is why substrate assessment and proper expansion joint placement are non-negotiable parts of our process.

Regular cleaning with a pH-neutral cleaner is the main thing. Avoid bleach-based cleaners on colored grout, as they can fade pigment over time. Reapply a penetrating sealer every one to two years in high-use areas. If grout begins to crack or crumble, re-grouting the affected joints early prevents water from migrating underneath the tile in wet areas. We are glad to advise on specific maintenance products after a job is complete.